Mount Cholatse is a rarely climbed mountain. The normal route starts from Macchermo side, by the Gokyo Lake trail. Several unclimbed and difficult routes start from Chola lake, easily approached by pheriche on the normal Everest B.C. Trail.
On what should have been the third ascent of the Ama Dablan's (6814m) north east face -1700m vertical metres, Ueli Steck wisely decided to retreat at 5900m as the conditions were dangerous due to heavy snowfalls. Similarly on the Tawoche, as he made an initial attempt on the east face's rocky ramparts, he realised that only a kamikaze would consider it. He alternatively chose the ice on the left of the wall which was a relatively easy (for him), regular line that took four and half hours to climb overnight on the 24th April. In the morning, following 1500 metres of ice (up and down) varying between 50 and 60 degrees with a few vertical pitches judged as M5, he got back to base camp in time for breakfast .. It was the first time in seven years that someone reached this incredible mountain's summit.....More on Request |